World Information Sea Fishing Maps Blog

The first being an unusual new specialist rod from Mike Willis Fly Fishing Products Tel 01525 222644.

Except this revolutionary 12 foot Collett System rod is not for fly fishing. It has been custom designed for the angler who might wish to quiver tip for chub one week, and then go for barbel, tench, big pike, carp or catfish the next.

Because the butt section, which can be extended below the reel seat from 16 to 28 inches [via a simple’ half turn of a knurled nut and pull’ to lengthen] accommodates every forearm length requirement from close range to long range ledgering, and comes with no less than four tips.

A 1.75 lbs test curve quiver tip, a 1.75 lbs, standard tip, plus others of 2.25lbs and 2.75lbs. This incredibly versatile rod costs £235-00 and comes in its own crush proof tube.An absolute must for the travelling big fish man.

How about some top of the range Polaroid glasses from famous Costa Del Mar of Daytona Beach Florida, USA, that are available in the 400 series and 580 [top of the range] and in no less than six shades of lens colour which deliver 100% polarisation and 100% UV protection, with a choice in simply hundreds of frame options. I chose the 400 series sunrise lens [yellow] and the PE -DA Pescador frames which have clear lens side frames to let all the available light in, [£135-00 retail] and they are so very, very comfortable.

Whats more, they come with holes pre-drilled [behind your ear] to take swivelled lanyards, [provided] and all Costa Del Mar glasses come with an unconditional lifetime warranty. For additional information and your nearest stockist, Tel 01628 623100 or e-mail info@seapower.uk.com

Now for a really super single species book from the crowood stable, [tel 01672 520320] entitled ‘Nile Perch’, the ultimate guide for anglers.

This lavishly illustrated, large format book costing £19-95[ evocative and inspirational colour plates of both wildlife and Nile perch both on Lake Nasser and on the River Nile itself] of 190 pages, contains just about anything you want to know about this enigmatic species [one of the planets largest fresh water fish] via the experiences of two veritable experts.

Tim Baily who out of Aswan has run fishing safaris for one and a half decades all over 300 mile long Lake Nasser in Egypt, and is directly responsible for so many anglers capturing their largest freshwater predator, myself included.

And Dr Barrie Rickards, who has spent more time on the lake than most visitors and who as a geologist understands these spiritual rocks intimately.

For Lake Nasser is of course a flooded desert. And as such is as unique as the Nile perch itself. A truly monumental work and most absorbing read.

The Right Tackle Box

This works pretty well for the most part. Inshore or in the Intracoastal, I take my normal eight-pound light spinning outfits, and a small box with terminal tackle for reds, flounder and trout. Offshore, I take the big stuff and just one or two small outfits.

What this means is that I commit when I leave the house. If I get on the water offshore and the winds kick up, the day is over; I have no tackle with me for inshore fishing. Conversely, if I commit to inshore light tackle, I have no heavy gear with me for bigger fish.

As I said, this works pretty well most of the time. Last Saturday was not one of those “pretty well” days.

My partner and I planned an inshore trip to pick up fish for a coming fish fry. Sheepshead, reds, flounder, drum – any and all of these were on our list of desirables, and our tackle reflected that.We headed for the jetties at the mouth of the St Johns River to look for an early sheepshead bite. The west wind had calmed water that had been blown up for the previous two weeks. Some good-sized ground swells were making their way to the point of the rocks and crashing there in rather spectacular fashion.

The outgoing tide pushed schools of mullet out of the river and around the end of the north jetty. When I say schools of mullet, I mean huge schools of mullet. There were several pods of six to eight inch fish, and they covered acres of water. You’ve heard the term, “so thick you could walk on them”. This scene had to be where that comment originated. I have never in all my years of fishing seen so many mullet in one area.

As soon as we idled the boat up to where we planned to fish, a tarpon erupted from the water next to us, scattering hundreds of mullet into the air. We both stood almost frozen as two or three more tarpon attacked the thick schools of mullet around the boat.

At times there were three tarpon in the air simultaneously, along with several hundred mullet. Most of the tarpon were in the 20 to 40 pound range, with a couple that I saw that might have gone 75 pounds – not monsters, but certainly an unfair match for our light tackle.I reached for my tackle box to find something we could throw to these fish, only to find I had left the lure box back at the house. All I had was small hooks and jig heads and four small Rat-L-Traps.

We used the trolling motor and the big engine to maneuver us into the current around the point. I tied one “trap” to my short fifteen-pound leader and slung it into a shower of mullet. It took about three casts before I hooked up, and after about half of the eight-pound line had screamed off my reel, the line broke. The way that fish ran, I suspect it was a Jack Crevalle because it never left the water.I tied on another “trap” as my partner attempted to get a live mullet bait into the school, and my first few casts netted two small jacks. Mixed in with the twenty or thirty tarpon that were feeding on these mullet were schools of jacks busting and chasing bait out of the water.

My partner finally tied on a trap after getting no takers on his mullet bait, and we both began hanging, catching and loosing jacks. If we timed our cast right, that is just before a tarpon broke on a school of bait, we could get one of them to take one of our traps. Each time, a leap in the air sent the trap singing back toward the boat and had us ducking for cover.

We finally hooked a tarpon that could not shake the trap from his mouth. By now, some three hours after we began slinging these Rat-L-Traps, a number of boats had gathered and anchored at the end of the jetties. Navigating through them in a heavy current was a bit tricky and was even tougher with a fish on the end of my line. Our fish jumped a number of times and ran most of the line off my reel several times. Each time he ran, we put the boat in gear and followed him to retrieve line. Then he sounded and basically sat in the current under the boat. There was little I could do except keep pressure on him, and follow wherever he decided to go.

After forty minutes of following the fish, he rolled over and came to the surface. My partner grabbed his lower lip and lifted him to the gunnel of the boat. My pliers quickly removed the lure, and after lifting him one time to admire him, we plucked one scale, revived him at the boat, and let him swim free.

My arm hurt for two days after that battle, a fact I am having a hard time living down amongst my friends. But I now have another tackle box in my boat. It is stored deep in the bow storage and it contains some small amount of terminal tackle and lures for multiple applications. The next time we go out after one kind of fish and find another kind cooperating, I will be ready!

Fish Hook Selection Makes a Difference

Hooks are hooks in most people’s mind. They figure they either need a big one or a small one, depending on the fish they are pursuing. Lots of anglers go though life completely missing the importance of using not only the right size hook, but probably most importantly the right type of hook.
Hook choice depends on several factors. Obviously, the smaller the fish, the smaller the hook required. What most anglers miss is, that line size, fish species, type of bait, and fishing structure play a major role in hook selection.
Have you ever fished next to someone who seemed to be catching three or four fish to your one? Perhaps your fish kept getting off before you got them to the boat, or your line kept hanging on the bottom while your neighbor never hung even once. It’s not just pure fishing luck that makes the difference. Most of the time it’s the hook choice you make.A thick forged hook is not the right choice. A thin aberdeen wire hook that can penetrate the hard inside of the mouth would be a better choice. A number 1 or 1/0 regular shank aberdeen works very well for these bait stealers.
Hook size is probably the first thing an angler thinks of when buying hooks. Most are smart enough to know which hook is the right size for the fish they are after. Sizes fro most manufacturers range from the very smallest freshwater trout hook at a number 32, to the very largest gamefish hook at 19/0. There is no world or industry standard method of measuring hooks, but here in the US, the measures go from the smallest size 32 (which is barely large enough to hold between two fingers) and count down. As the number decreases, the size increases all the way down to a number 1 hook. At this point the number changes to a designation of “aughts” or zeroes. A 1/0 (pronounced “one aught”) hook is the next larger size to a number 1. A 2/0 is larger still, and this numbering scheme goes as high as 19/0.
The size breakdown from smallest to largest looks like this:32, 30, 28, 26, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 11, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0, 5/0, 6/0, 7/0, 8/0, 9/0, 10/0, 11/0, 12/0, 13/0, 14/0, 15/0, 16/0, 17/0, 18/0, and 19/0
All of these hooks come in a short, regular, or long shank version. The shank of the hook is the part between the eye of the hook and the bend.

Hook Types

Fish hooks also come in several types. Knowing a few of the more popular ones and their uses can help you be successful:

O’SHAUGHNESSY
This hook is named for the specific design of the hook. It’s a standard hook, forged with a very strong bend. This hook is relatively thick, very strong, and not likely to bend out of shape. Generally designed for saltwater, it is good for general bottom fishing use. Sizes range from #3 to as large as 19/0.
ABERDEEN
These hooks, while primarily used in smaller sizes in freshwater, are also used by saltwater anglers. They are generally made from shaped wire. Unlike the O’Shaughnessy, it can and does bend. It can be bent back into shape several times before it becomes too weak. However, once a fish is hook and the barb has completely penetrated, this hook holds quite well. These hooks are modified with bends in their shanks for use in jig molds.
CIRCLE
Perhaps the best innovation in hooks to come along, circle hooks promote healthy catch and release. The design of the hook itself, when used properly, prevents fish from being hooked in the gut. Many anglers have a problem using these hooks because they require no hook set. If you do try to set the hook, it will generally come out of the mouth of the fish. These hooks are designed to move to the corner of the fish’s mouth and set themselves as the fish swims away from you. Anglers feel a bite and simply begin reeling, slowly at first, then faster as the hook gets set.
LIVE BAIT
These hooks generally have a shorter shank than other hooks. Whether that is to allow the live bait to swim more freely or to be less apparent to the fish is debatable. My vote is to allow the bait to swim more freely. These hooks come in regular and circle designs. Regular live bait hooks will be swallowed and result in gut hooks most of the time. Circle live bait hooks provide a greater chance for a good release.
KAHLE
The curve on these hooks makes them ideal for live bait. Made from the same wire as the Aberdeen hooks, they will bend if hung on the bottom of some structure. However, once a fish is hooked, the design of the hook prevents it from being straightened.

Which hook should you use for which fish?

You can see that there are choices to be made. Perhaps a more important choice would be which hook should you not use for a particular fish?
Judge your hook choice by the physical characteristics of the fish. Let’s take the sheepshead, a member of the porgy family, as an example. These fish have a small but extremely hard mouth, and two rows of almost human looking teeth. It is extremely difficult to set the hook inside their mouth.

Larger fish with a softer mouth would warrant a larger, harder hook. The O’Shaughnessy would be a good choice here. A larger aberdeen wire hook would not stand up to the fight of a larger fish. Seatrout, red drum, black drum, snapper, bluefish, striped bass, and all fish of this general type can be caught with O’Shaughnessys.
Large-mouthed fish, such as grouper, or any of the larger varieties of fish demand larger hooks. A 1/0 hook would probably not find a place to hook up in a twenty-pound grouper’s mouth.

Do I need a circle hook

The answer to this question is determined by a couple of factors. First, do you plan to release what you catch? If so, a circle hook is definitely in order. Second, even though you plan to keep fish to eat, do you think that you may catch a large number of undersized fish? If the answer is yes, then, again, a circle hook is in order.
Circle hooks come in a light wire and a heavy-duty variety. Which circle hook you use depends on the size and type of fish as we already discussed.

Hook and sinker or a jig?

A standard bottom rig with a leader, swivel and sinker is good for most applications. However, I find that a plain jig head works just as well as the standard rig with some added advantages.
With a standard rig, a fish can take your bait, and literally swim with it without you feeling them if your leader is too long. With a jig head, you feel every motion and touch of your bait, allowing you to set the hook earlier.
In bottom areas of rock or other structure, the standard rig has a likelihood of hanging in that bottom structure. A jig head allows you to “feel” the bottom and control the sink rate of your bait. Hang-ups are much easier to free without breaking your line.
On the other hand, bottom fishing with live bait often demands a standard rig to allow the bait to swim freely. Jig heads usually prevent that live bait from swimming as freely.

What about line?

Your choice of hook type and size is definitely influenced by your line size. Eight-pound test line can only exert a maximum of eight pounds of pressure on a hook set. That thick heavy-duty hook will have a hard time penetrating the jaw of a fish with that little pressure.
Heavy line, say fifty or sixty pound test, can easily force that hook home. But a small wire aberdeen hook will likely be bent straight without penetrating the jaw if used with heavy line.
The answer lies in matching the line size, the type of fish, and the type and size of hook as a package. I like eight-pound line with a 3/8-ounce jig head and 3/0 aberdeen hook for most of my inshore fishing. The eight-pound line is heavy enough and the aberdeen hook is thin enough so that my hook set actually hooks the fish.

Small hook big fish?

With all this discussion, you’re probably wondering how we catch such big fish on light tackle. The answer is a balance that has to be struck between hook size and anticipated fish size.
I do catch twenty-pound fish on eight-pound line quite regularly. The line is not the problem. A good drag puts you on a level playing field when fishing with light line.
The balance is in the hook size. If the hook is too small, it will penetrate easily, but will pull straight even easier causing you to loose a good fish. It the hook is too large or thick, your light line can’t exert enough pressure for the hook to penetrate, hence your fish fights for a second or two and then swims free.

Hooks and bait selection

Bait, both live and dead, plays a major part in hooking a fish. Imagine a huge chunk of cut bait with a number 1 hook buried in the middle of it. Hooking a fish with that scenario is virtually impossible. Conversely, imagine a 5/0 hook with a single fiddler crab on it. I think you get the picture
The hook you use needs to be large enough to be able to hold the bait and hook the fish, yet small enough that it doesn’t actually hide the bait!
Live bait hooks and kahle hooks should be used for “live” bait. Choose the hook size according to the bait size. Don’t get the hook lost in the bait, and don’t kill the bait with a hook that is too large.

Bottom Line

The bottom line to hook selection is threefold. First, use common sense. As simple as that may sound, I can’t tell you the number of times I have seen people make some really bad hook choices. Don't expect to catch a huge fish on a tiny hook!
Second, use some trial and error and learn from your mistakes. No one became a good fisherman overnight. All of us had to learn either from someone else or by trial and error.
Finally, to all of you who are new to fishing, try taking these examples and build your learning experiences upon them. Trial and error are often the best teachers in any skill.

SPORTFISH CATALOGUE

If you enjoyed this post subscribe for free and keep updated automatically each time a new subject is added.

SPORTFISH

If you enjoyed this post subscribe for free and keep updated automatically each time a new subject is added.